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Author Topic: OIL CHANGE  (Read 54486 times)

kampcool

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OIL CHANGE
« on: November 04, 2011, 07:24:12 am »
Just came up on my 4000 mile mark and decided to shoot a few photos while I did the necessesary maintenance on my 2010 Strat Deluxe.
 
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjG18WGbHMg


 
1)  Called my dealership and asked about the warrantee and user oil changes...   They said it was cool, but I needed to document it (by reciepts).  I will go a step further and keep a timestamped picture log, as well. 
 
2) Rode my baby home out of Detroit traffic for about an hour, and as soon as i got home, broke open the Stratoliners user manual, and proceeded to do the 4000 mile oil change.
 
3) Days prior, when I picked up the Yamalube, and was asking all my warrantee questions, I decided to buy a new filter as well, although it was not recommended.  Yamaha only demands a new filter after every other oil change.  I beg to differ.
 
4) OILS hot, bike in neutral, on level ground.......Shut her down. Very cool bike, you do not need to jack it up, or remove exhaust to accomplish this.

 
5) remove riders seat


 
6) Place a low profile pan underneath with the capacity to hold around 6 quarts. When u do a complete oil and filter change its 5.18 u.s quarts.


7) First I went after the filter, because I knew it was going to be most problematic (hard to get off (STOCK)).  And sure enough, it was.  Yamaha sells a special tool, but whatever..Heres what I did.  I removed the oil sending line first (to make plenty of room)


Then I had FULL access to get physicall to REAF off that stock filter that had to be on there at about 50 FTPDS..
(ensure the stock o-ring comes off with the filter)


8) There are two plugs to remove on the crankcase (near the kickstand)  (17mm) Let the bad stuff flow out.


 
9) Then there is the oil tank plug that needs to be removed. Pictures will descibe best on its location 17MM socket:



10) CLEAN all surfaces, and bolts. aftermath should look like this (as bad blood drips)



you will notice in this photo I actually dented the stock filter upon removal (TIGHT LIKE PROM NIGHT)
 
11) Install new filter after coating new oring with fresh oil, and all three plug bolts. (and oil sending line)
 
12) follow the owners manual on filling and checking oil, and you will be in the wind ALOT more richer.   This will help TOO!
 
 


 


 

   
 

 
« Last Edit: April 07, 2015, 05:58:55 pm by kampcool »



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    lrymal

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #1 on: November 04, 2011, 08:21:35 am »
    Great photos....  just an opinionated comment--> Just get a "strap" type oil filter wrench from an automotive store.  You don't need to loosen an oil line.  Is there a crush washer at the oil line? You might need to keep a stock of those if you need to loosen that line.

    Larry Rymal - Joaquin - East Texas
    2008 Roadliner upgraded to Stratoliner.  Buck's Lowers, Yamaha Touring bars.  Diamond Seats. Harley Tour-Pak using Yamaha detachable mount.  11" Clearview Shield.


    StratDlx Pilot

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #2 on: November 04, 2011, 12:04:57 pm »
    +1 on the nice pics and procedures. I used the band-type filter wrench and it came right off. No need for to remove the oil line.

    This might be a nit-pick so forgive me. You use the word warrantee and not warranty. Recently I hear radio ads using the word "warrantee" to make the word warranty sound like guarantee. The two are very different. I'm not dogging your spelling, just pointing out that in the US there isn't any such thing but advertisers have been using it lately to mislead people into thinking a product has a guarantee. It simply has warranty. Sorry for the ramble.

    Thanks again for posting such good detail on the oil change.
    My other bike is an airplane.

    kampcool

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #3 on: November 08, 2011, 02:48:54 am »
      Right on, thanks for the heads up, and yeah it was late (or early) I dont know if im coming or going latley, just did 2 shift changes in the last month or so.      As for the oil line thats a negatron on crushed washers in there, no washers at all, just the two bolts.   I had a lot of pesky pebbles lodged inbetween my filter and the oil line itself, so i couldnt get any of my oil filter wrenches in there.   Thats the primary reason why I started to look at that route, and Im glad I did, seeing how tight the original filter was reafed on there. 
     
      Next time, it should be alot easier, and you guys are right, I shouldnt have to remove the line whatsoever.

    floridaliner

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #4 on: November 08, 2011, 09:06:22 pm »
     8)  you guys are great for posting this stuff for new guys with Liners or Raiders.   ;)   

     I forget the little stuff that helps others. 
    120ci sleeper bagger
    "White Rhino"

    wildnoz

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #5 on: January 29, 2012, 09:14:43 pm »
    what type of wrench did you use to get the bolts out of the motor, the space is to tight for a wrench or socket ? I modified/ground a 17mm open end wrench and was able to loosen them but now am unable to tighten them back.

    kampcool

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #6 on: January 31, 2012, 02:10:52 am »
      Hey WildNoz, wish I could have responded quicker, but I was at work.  I dont remember any difficulty whatsoever on the 2 bolts, just inside the frame (from the kickstand).  If I did, It seems like I would have mentioned something here.....  I am about tempted to walk out into my garage and go look.     
     
      All I can remember using, is my socket and rachet (for all three).   
     
      This will bug me all night, so I will be right back.  Im gonna go out there and take my phone, and see how I would get at them again.

    greg1900

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #7 on: January 31, 2012, 03:01:21 am »
    I used a regular craftsman 17 mm combination wrench. It helps to run the front wheel up onto a 2x8  for the extra clearance.
    -greg1900

    kampcool

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #8 on: January 31, 2012, 03:05:47 am »
    +1 on that.  (Just a combo wrench)
     Heres the dillema I think you might be running into.
      DONT Try it from this side of the bike. (LEFT-HAND-SIDE (CLUTCH))



    « Last Edit: January 31, 2012, 06:32:51 am by kampcool »

    kampcool

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #9 on: January 31, 2012, 03:13:35 am »
      Try it from this side (RIGHT-HAND-SIDE (with the front wheel at different positions (or elevated slightly)))
     




    This is with the front wheel turned all the way to the left.   
     
     Dont laugh at my crap combo either Ive had it since 88, and it was a hand me down then  8)


     
        Best of luck (you probably already got it, but this might help others in the future. (and thats what its all about)
    « Last Edit: January 31, 2012, 06:31:18 am by kampcool »

    kampcool

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #10 on: January 31, 2012, 03:16:51 am »
     And remember, that when you are behind the bolts, Righty is LOOSEY and Lefty Is Tighty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;D

    kampcool

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #11 on: January 31, 2012, 07:05:13 am »
      No Need to modify ANY tools here (or "use open ends", like in our toolcase), except in emergency situations.  Stray away from using open-end wrenches here, as these bolts are soft-metal (on purpose).  On that note, these bolts do not need to be "Torqed super tight", either.......
    The modern finishes on these fasteners are designed to be oil tight (under these minimal pressures (at these points)).   You want to be able to break these bolts "loose" with the emergency tool kit you carry.  Please factor in your riding situation and traveling tools, when you you do your oil change. 
     
      In other words,  "SNUG", with a box-end 17mm.   (In the oil/change department)  OVERTIGHT under this motor is not wanted, or needed.
    « Last Edit: January 31, 2012, 07:26:24 am by kampcool »

    wildnoz

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #12 on: January 31, 2012, 08:36:42 am »
    I got a thin walled box end wrench and tightened them up, even though I probably over tightened them i was happy to get the job done so I could ride. The weather is unseasonably warm for January at 62 degrees. I was getting the bike ready for bike week but ridding today (LOVE IT), Thanks for the help..

    jon

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #13 on: March 25, 2012, 10:59:41 am »
    Just did my first oil change.
    This thread was a big help, thank you for taking the time to take the pictures and do the write up.

    streetliner11

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    Re: OIL CHANGE
    « Reply #14 on: March 25, 2012, 11:17:27 am »
    any using synthetic oil, i swearby in autos  anyone  useing in the roadie????